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Null Heat Pump

Back in April we had The 2009 Great Heating and Cooling Project. Above 32°F, heating is done by the Goodman 2-ton heat pump. Basically, it's an air conditioner run backwards, so hot exhaust gets dumped inside and the outside gets the cold air. Amazing that it actually works.

It's also a little bit odd, because the air coming out of the ductwork isn't hot-hot, like the warm arm when the furnace is running.

Last Wednesday I realized that the heat pump wasn't really warming the house. Outside temp was near freezing, about 34°F. Overnight we let the house cool down, but in the morning after running for an hour-and-a-half it had only gone from about 68°F to 69-70°F. Later in the morning I raised the set point again and after 45 minutes, again only 68°F to 69°F. So I shut down the heat pump and switched to the furnace full-time. Went from 69°F to 72°F in 10-15 minutes. Ah... warm.

Strange Noises

The other symptom: late one night, when the outside temp was 36°F and the heat pump had been running, I heard a 10-15 second long grinding noise -- like the compressor was restarting. Heard that sound during the long not-so-much-warming incidents on Wednesday, too. Hmm...

Overfilled At The Plant?

My heating and cooling guy, Greg, checked out the heat pump and found that it was running, both in heating mode and cooling mode. Worked real good as an air conditioner when the outside temp is 47°F. (grin) The pressure and amps were a bit high, as if it were working a little harder than normal, but it wasn't out of refrigerant (my initial guess). He wondered about the TX transfer valve, the valve on the inside of the heat exchanger that has to switch between heating and cooling. He left to go get a TX valve, but the supplier said that the manufacturer had reported that some heat pumps had shipped with too much refrigerant, up to two pounds, which would cause too high a pressure and in cold weather, i.e., the unit might've been freezing up.

The installation papers had pressure charts for AC mode in temps above 60°F, but not in heat mode. Greg was able to get those figures and found the pressure while running to be high. So he hooked up a tank and removed some of the refrigerant to bring the pressures down to the new tables he'd gotten for heat mode. Reweighed his tank and it was nearly two pounds heavier. Considering the total charge is supposed to be five pounds, it was definitely overcharged at the plant.

Huh

Running the heat pump, the air coming from the vents actually felt warm -- still not hot like with the furnace, but I wasn't expecting that. AC mode would've been working okay, given that the outside temps would've been hire, but the amps to the compressor have dropped so it will run more efficiently in the future. In the spring, when the weather is back up to 70°F, Greg will come back and check the pressures for cooling mode.

While it is annoying that someone screwed up at the plant, it helps that the heat pump and the furnace complement each other, so we have a back-up heat source. (grin) Of course, it's now about 60°F outside, so the heat isn't running. But hopefully we're back up to full power.

Dr. Phil

Date: Tuesday, 20 October 2009 04:09 (UTC)
From: [identity profile] slithytove.livejournal.com
My impression has been that heat pumps aren't recommended for your climate. Or even mine. For them to work, there has to be heat to pump. When it gets very cold outside, the efficiency goes to squat. They work fine below the Mason-Dixon Line, but for the Rust Belt, the proper thing is a furnace.

YMMV if global warming gets going, of course, and hippos and Nile crocs start to show up in the Great Lakes.

Hm. Why can't we have a Prius furance? It would store heat in the summer, and release it in the winter. Vice versa for cold. I'm imagining something like a huge flywheel.

Date: Tuesday, 20 October 2009 04:55 (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dr-phil-physics.livejournal.com
Actually, what you need is a temperature (heat) difference -- the heat pump works down to about 17°F, but the efficiency at that point is pretty low, so it's set to switch to the furnace at 32°F. Below freezing the air carries less moisture anyway, so it has less heat content. And we have a very nice very high efficiency two-stage furnace.

Now I might not have bought the heat pump, but basically replacing the furnace and replacing the furnace with the high efficiency heat pump + furnace cost the same money this year because of the high efficiency energy tax rebate. For >$10K, the next even more efficient system is the ground water heat storage system, which works very well in lower Michigan. But I wasn't going to spend 50-100% more. At some point, super high efficiency isn't cost effective.

Trust me -- the Physics and the economics were sound, especially this year.

Dr. Phil

Date: Tuesday, 20 October 2009 16:29 (UTC)
From: [identity profile] steve-buchheit.livejournal.com
I believe what you're looking for is geothermal.

Date: Tuesday, 20 October 2009 16:29 (UTC)
From: [identity profile] steve-buchheit.livejournal.com
It's always good to have a backup, and if you can afford the extra system it certainly makes sense. We're talking about an addition to the house maybe sometime next year, and where we could put the woodburner. I've got the wood already.

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